Splurge

2007 Chapel Hill 'The Vicar' Shiraz $60

2010-02-05T02:21:07Z

One of McLaren Vale's finest wineries is going through a purple patch: the 2007 Chapel Hill Shiraz ($30) is impressive, the 2008 'Il Vescovo' Sangiovese ($20) is one of the best examples of that variety in the market place, while the flagship 2007 'The Vicar' Shiraz is a ripper.

Winemaker, Michael Fragos, knows the Vales well and has crafted this red from four vineyard blocks, the parcels from which were kept apart during fermentation and oak maturation. The making of the wine was quite traditional with aging in French (70%) and American oak (30%), about half of which was new. While it is pretty oaky at present, it is very approachable and so could be enjoyed now; yet will improve with time in the bottle. I love its riotous aromatics, its ripe lush blackberry, black cherry and dark plum flavours and seductive lush texture. This is classic McLaren Vale Shiraz of the finest quality.

2007 Bremerton 'Selkirk' Shiraz $22

2010-02-05T02:20:35Z

Sometimes I'm not sure what makes for a Splurge, so this week I'm offering one terrific shiraz at about $20 and another at a loftier $60. Bremerton is a smallish family winery in Langhorne Creek which makes delightful, irrestible reds. I think this vintage of the 'Selkirk' represents terrific value. It is fragrant, has dark plum and redcurrant flavours, a touch of brambly fruit, fleshy almost syrupy texture, and a pleasing soft approachability.

2009 Clonakilla Viognier Nouveau $25

2010-02-05T02:19:54Z

Under Tim Kirk's guardianship, this Canberra winery has helped propel the region's wineries into the national spotlight. His Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier is our finest example of the style – a sublime red of finesse, elegance and sophisticated flavours while his Riesling and Viognier are classy whites of rare quality. Recently, I loved his cheaper viognier, a drink now style that I would be very happy to drink anytime now. It's bright, clean, fresh with attractive primal flavours that are tangy and enticing before a vibrant, zesty finish.

Champagne

2009-12-18T02:52:51Z

N/V Pierre Gimonnet Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs $50

The best value champagne on the market. From a small producer based in the village of Cuis, this sparkling chardonnay is delicately perfumed, fine, intensely yeasty, balanced, finishing soft and creamy. (Exclusive to Vintage Cellars.)

2002 Drappier Grand Sendrée Brut $69.95

This was Charles de Gaulle's favourite champagne and is predominantly sourced from the Aube. It's a distinctive style that many will love: big, powerful with yeasty, briochey, almost vegemitey, oxidative flavours, complex, bold and tingly with explosive acidity.

N/V Pol Gessner Brut $42.95

This is a budget-priced label for the large firm of Marne et Champagne. The current non-vintage blend is fresh, clean and lively, has reasonable depth and richness, and drinks well. Very good value. (Exclusive to Woolworths.)

N/V Lanson Black Label $59.95

A well-priced non-vintage champagne that is tight and restrained yet bold and powerful with intense yeasty, biscuity flavours and taut zippy acidity.

1999 Mumm Cordon Rouge $95

A classy vintage champagne that is delightfully perfumed, fresh, clean and vibrant, intensely flavoured, powerful and zesty.

2002 Taittinger $140

Sheer class: intense yeasty, vegimitey flavours that are rich, bold and powerful and creamy texture that is sure to appeal.

Kiwi Bubbly

2009-12-10T09:57:02Z

2006 Deutz 'Marlborough Cuvée Blanc de Blancs $32

I saw this at the tasting of gold medal and trophy wines from the Air New Zealand Show and was mightily impressed. It is delicately aromatic, has a wiff of lemon citrus and some bready notes, is fine yet vibrant with subtle yeasty characters, soft, creamy texure, and gentle, lively acidity which refreshes and cleanses.

Aussie bubblies

2009-12-08T03:35:31Z

NV Bay of Fires 'Tasmanian Cuvee' Brut $33

From Ed Carr, Constellation's master blender, comes this fine, intense bubbly with bready yeasty characters, soft creamy texture and zesty, tangy acidity.

NV Brown Brothers Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier $22

Winner of the trophy as best bubbly at 2009 National Wine Show against pricier opposition: fresh, clean, lively and bold, intense and vibrant, fairly tingles on the tongue. Value.

2005 Chandon Tasmanian Cuvee $39.95

From the Yarra Valley-based sparkling wine specialist, here is an intensely yeasty bubbly that is powerful and full-flavoured with bracing natural acidity.

2006 Croser $35

From Petaluma and the Adelaide Hills comes this well-established Aussie bubbly. In 2006, it's delicate and subtle with some yeasty characters, an attractive creamy mouthfeel and a soft, gentle finish.

2004 Houghton 'Wisdom' Chardonnay Pinot Noir $32

A Pemberton sparkling wine that is inevitably WA's best bubbly: soft, round and creamy with complex bready, yeasty flavours; power with finesse.

2008 Pepperjack Shiraz

2009-10-22T11:58:06Z

Sometimes I wonder if the big companies get overlooked, just because they're big. Here is a classic Barossa shiraz produced by Fosters at a fair price: there's heaps of vanillin oak providing a fragrant lift as well as a frame for the rich, ripe, concentrated plummy, mulberry fruit. It is soft and creamy and has a plush texture which makes it very easy to drink, especially given its gentle, silky tannins.

Cost: $ 24.95

Wide availability in all Australian states.

Reviewed: 23 October 2009

2004 Pewsey Vale 'The Contours' Riesling

2009-09-16T19:53:20Z

Splurging on riesling allows you to drink one of the greatest examples of the variety made in Australia without breaking the bank. It's released as a five year old wine and is sourced from the picturesque Eden Valley vineyard of Pewsey Vale with its dramatic contoured vines. Here, with the 2004 'The Contours' you have a mature riesling in its prime. It still shows plenty of youthful zest, paradoxically with some mellow softness and ever-so gentle toastiness in the mid-palate. Expect intense and pure lime juice flavours with lemongrass notes before a crisp, dry, zesty finish that excites and lingers.

Cost: $ 27.95

Winemaker: Louisa Rose

Limited availability in all Australian states. www.pewseyvale.com

Reviewed: 18 September 2009

2008 Joseph 'La Magia' Botrytis Riesling Traminer

2009-08-13T14:23:02Z

Joe Grilli has been making stickies for ages using whatever grape varieties he has at his disposal - so there's no recognisable line that you can follow. They've invariable been very fine wines and delicious. This is the first year Joe has used riesling from his vineyard at coolish Clarendon at 250 metres, as well as his other McLaren Vale vineyards. It's blended with botrytised traminer from Coonawarra. The 2008 'La Magia' has intense, ripe sweet fruit that shows apricot and honey flavours, power and a clean, crisp finish that lingers.

Cost: $ 25 (375ml)

Winemaker: Joe Grilli

Limited availability in all Australian states. www.primoestate.com.au

Reviewed: 14 August 2009

2007 Luke Lambert Reserve Syrah

2009-07-10T05:17:07Z

Luke Lambert has achieved a great deal in his short career. Most importantly, he is one of a group of bright young Yarra Valley winemakers who are turning the region into a hot bed of experimentation and innovation. He started making syrah and nebbiolo in his garage at Yarra Glen in 2004 and now leases three single hectare blocks (one of nebbiolo at Heathcote, another in the Yarra and one of syrah in the Yarra) and is specialising in these varieties. Like all his wines, the 2007 Syrah has no new oak, is fermented naturally, given extended maceration and neither fined nor filtered. I love the wine: it has a brooding, briary character on the nose with an array of complex aromas. On the palate it is dense, deep and ultra-concentrated, more savoury than fruity, complex and brambly. Its velvety texture and the balance between fruit and fine, ripe tannins give it an approachability though it will benefit from time in the bottle.

Cost: $ 65

Winemaker: Luke Lambert

Cellar door, mailing list, restaurants. Ask about it. www.lukelambertwines.com.au

At the moment they are also available at:

Randall's

186 Bridport St

Albert Park VIC 3206

St Jude's Cellars

389 - 391 Brunswick St

Fitzroy 3065

Reviewed: 10 July 2009