One of McLaren Vale's finest wineries is going through a purple patch: the 2007 Chapel Hill Shiraz ($30) is impressive, the 2008 'Il Vescovo' Sangiovese ($20) is one of the best examples of that variety in the market place, while the flagship 2007 'The Vicar' Shiraz is a ripper.

Winemaker, Michael Fragos, knows the Vales well and has crafted this red from four vineyard blocks, the parcels from which were kept apart during fermentation and oak maturation. The making of the wine was quite traditional with aging in French (70%) and American oak (30%), about half of which was new. While it is pretty oaky at present, it is very approachable and so could be enjoyed now; yet will improve with time in the bottle. I love its riotous aromatics, its ripe lush blackberry, black cherry and dark plum flavours and seductive lush texture. This is classic McLaren Vale Shiraz of the finest quality. 

Sometimes I'm not sure what makes for a Splurge, so this week I'm offering one terrific shiraz at about $20 and another at a loftier $60. Bremerton is a smallish family winery in Langhorne Creek which makes delightful, irrestible reds. I think this vintage of the 'Selkirk' represents terrific value. It is fragrant, has dark plum and redcurrant flavours, a touch of brambly fruit, fleshy almost syrupy texture, and a pleasing soft approachability.

Under Tim Kirk's guardianship, this Canberra winery has helped propel the region's wineries into the national spotlight. His Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier is our finest example of the style – a sublime red of finesse, elegance and sophisticated flavours while his Riesling and Viognier are classy whites of rare quality. Recently, I loved his cheaper viognier, a drink now style that I would be very happy to drink anytime now. It's bright, clean, fresh with attractive primal flavours that are tangy and enticing before a vibrant, zesty finish. 

N/V Pierre Gimonnet Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs $50

The best value champagne on the market. From a small producer based in the village of Cuis, this sparkling chardonnay is delicately perfumed, fine, intensely yeasty, balanced, finishing soft and creamy.  (Exclusive to Vintage Cellars.)

2002 Drappier Grand Sendrée Brut $69.95

This was Charles de Gaulle's favourite champagne and is predominantly sourced from the Aube. It's a distinctive style that many will love: big, powerful with yeasty, briochey, almost vegemitey, oxidative flavours, complex, bold and tingly with explosive acidity.

N/V Pol Gessner Brut $42.95

This is a budget-priced label for the large firm of Marne et Champagne. The current non-vintage blend is fresh, clean and lively, has reasonable depth and richness, and drinks well. Very good value. (Exclusive to Woolworths.)

N/V Lanson Black Label $59.95

A well-priced non-vintage champagne that is tight and restrained yet bold and powerful with intense yeasty, biscuity flavours and taut zippy acidity.

1999 Mumm Cordon Rouge $95

A classy vintage champagne that is delightfully perfumed, fresh, clean and vibrant, intensely flavoured, powerful and zesty.

2002 Taittinger $140

Sheer class: intense yeasty, vegimitey flavours that are rich, bold and powerful and creamy texture that is sure to appeal. 

2006 Deutz 'Marlborough Cuvée Blanc de Blancs $32

I saw this at the tasting of gold medal and trophy wines from the Air New Zealand Show and was mightily impressed. It is delicately aromatic, has a wiff of lemon citrus and some bready notes, is fine yet vibrant with subtle yeasty characters, soft, creamy texure, and gentle, lively acidity which refreshes and cleanses.