Margaret River

Eating out Margaret River can be every bit as good as it is in Perth as I was reminded on a recent visit to the region.

Unless you wanted to grab a casual meal at the Settlers Tavern (with its excellent pub food and great wine list), evenings in Margaret River township had been a bit bleak of late. The arrival of Must Margaret River changes that. The spacious restaurant and adjacent wine bar are stunningly fitted out while the food under young Harvey boy, Chris Cheong, is every bit as good as its Must's Highgate sibling. Aged beef is a specialty which is tempting palates. The brilliant wine list includes a controversial Margaret River Top 40 and a unique listing of wine from every local label. Outstanding service, too.

If you're looking for an evening meal near Dunsborough, head for the Food Farmacy where Simon Beaton's cooking is as adventurous and inventive as ever. It is, however, more assured than before showing better balance and harmony between the component parts of each dish. Good wine list, excellent service and coffee.

The area's winery restaurants rival those of any Australian wine region with chef, Aaron Carr, at Vasse Felix the unquestioned superstar. Newcomer, Knee Deep slots into the top rank of Margaret River restaurants thanks to young Kiwi chef Brad Hornby's superb technique as well as his ability to source outstanding produce. His 'Trust the Chef'' degustations are deservedly popular. The service is accomplished and the coffee brilliant. The wines, especially the 2007 Chardonnay and 2007 Shiraz, are reasonably priced and of good quality.

Xanadu remains in the first rank of the region's restaurants thanks to Ian Robertson's skill in the kitchen and his ability to blend Japanese flavours and techiques with modern Australia food. His tasting plates offer wonderful variety of complex flavours neatly complemented by Glenn Goodall's ever improving wines: the chardonnays are a revelation.