I've been impressed by the transformation of this Margaret River vineyard since it's been under the ownership of Peter Fogarty and the Fogarty group which own Millbrook in the Perth Hills and Lake's Folly in the Hunter Valley. In June, it purchased the sizeable Smithbrook vineyard in Pemberton and its processing facility from Lion Nathan. The Deep Woods vineyard is in the northern sector of the Margaret River region in the locality of Yallingup and is now producing excellent fruit. The 'Ebony' is sourced from the estate vineyard and others in the region. It is made from cabernet shiraz with a total of 13% merlot, cabernet franc and malbec added to the blend. The 2008 Deep Woods 'Ebony' Cabernet Shiraz is a powerful, fruit-driven style with ripe blackcurrant, dark plums flavours that are juicy even succulent before a fine, approachable finish featuring non-aggressive ripe tannins. It's pleasantly smooth and there's plenty of richness and concentration, what others might call 'grunt'. Not me, of course.

Rating: Bloody Good

Cost: $ 14.95

Winemaker: Travis Clydesdale

Limited availability in WA, NSW, Qld and Victoria. www.deepwoods.com.au

Reviewed: 13 November 2009