Well, I tasted this in June and had expected it to be included in the Quaff tastings. For some reason it didn't make it to me until after the Quaff tastings which is a shame because I thought then, and now, that this was a ripper. I had it pegged for a place in Quaff's Top 20. So I have no hesitation in saying that this is one of the most impressive quaffing reds I've seen this year - it's that good. I suspect that it's the best quaffing wine available that is not in Quaff 2010. I don't think that I've said this before this year but it's a wine that I believe you should try.

What I particularly like about the Nouveau Shiraz is that it is perfectly suited to the Australian climate. It's the kind of wine we should be making - and do far too rarely. No surprise then that it comes from De Bortoli, winner of Quaff's Winery of the Year. Their performance in Quaff has been extraordinary. One of the things that I love about De Bortoli is their restless experimentation and innovation. Best of all this wine has been made in sizeable volumes - so it should be widely available.

Chief Winemaker in the Yarra, Steve Webber mentioned that it was a blend of regions, largely Heathcote and the King Valley, and that he pushed the boundaries in order to get bright vibrant fruit characters. In the heat of summer when you need a red, you could even quaff it with an ice block or two. It's inspired by the best wines from Beaujolais.

The 2009 De Bortoli Nouveau Shiraz is wildly fragrant, has bright raspberry, mulberry and redcurrant flavours, a juicy succulent maceration character and ripe gentle tannins.

Rating: Bloody Good

Cost: $ 14

Winemaker: Steve Webber, Sarah Fagan

Wide availability in all Australian states. www.debortoli.com.au

Reviewed: 2 October 2009