It happens every year and yet it's still the cause for great delight: the riesling tastings for Quaff are littered with highlights and much more so than with any other variety. This year there have been at least ten Bloody Goods all selling for comfortably under $15 and all excellent food wines. Again, typically, the greatest concentration of top wines have come from South Australia's Eden and Clare Valleys - even more reason to tell you about this gem from Canberra.

It made by Bill Calabria and his team from Westend in the Riverina - one of Australia's delightfully energetic family companies that have been around since about 1944. There's an increasing number of Australian wineries sourcing fruit from elsewhere to flesh out their portfolios and extend their line up of wines. So Westend are diversifying into one of Australia's up and coming regions - Canberra - and sourcing grapes from a variety that does brilliantly there.

By a fascinating coincidence, I'm typing this in my Sydney hotel room having come to town for a Gourmet Traveller Wine tasting of the wines of the Canberra region. And the two varieties to shine - riesling and shiraz. The great thing about the Westend Riesling (apart from its quality) is its price: significantly below what most of the Canberra producers can offer. So the 2008 Westend Cool Climate Riesling has delightful aromatics, intense and pure lime and lemon flavours, is crunchy, squashy, juicy in the mouth, finishing with refreshing natural acidity. It has finesse, delicacy and balance and is deep, long and satisfying. Try it.

Rating: Bloody Good

Cost: $ 14.95

Winemaker: Bill Calabria, Bryan Currie, Sally Whittaker

Limited availability in all Australian states. www.westendestate.com.au

Reviewed: 3 July 2009